Exploring Patagonia

Day 1: Landing in Balmaceda

As our plane touched down in Balmaceda, we were greeted by the sight of snow falling outside the window. Stepping out of the plane, we felt the first chill in the air... Patagonia. After picking up our rental cars, we set off towards Cerro Castillo. The roads were covered with snow, and heavy snowfall continued as we made our way to the house. Without a 4x4, it would have been tough to drive through these conditions. The one-hour journey was stunning, and we couldn’t resist stopping for photos, captivated by the breathtaking Patagonian landscapes around us. Being here in Patagonia feels like a dream come true.

Arriving at the remote house where we’d be staying, we settled in, embracing the cold and the solitude of this incredible location. We had anticipated this moment for so long and couldn’t have been happier to finally be here. Later, our guide Javi joined us at the house for a brief meeting to go over the plan for the upcoming days.

Day 2: Mirador del Peñón

We woke up early, after a night of powerful winds – the infamous Patagonian gusts roared outside until morning. When we got up, we found the pipes of the house frozen, a typical challenge in these cold conditions, but a bit of boiling water on the pump solved it quickly. We enjoyed a quiet morning at the house, then met up with our guide, Javi, for our traditional morning stop at the Copec station, where we enjoyed a hot coffee before starting our day’s adventure. Today’s plan was a nearby trek to take in the scenery and help our guests from Spain shake off any lingering jet lag.

We hiked for two hours through a beautiful forest until we reached a stunning lookout point. From there, we could see the mountains up close, feeling that we were truly getting nearer to them. Standing there, we couldn’t wait to get even closer – the urge to ski those slopes was stronger than ever.

Day 3: Cerro Mirador

We woke up early, only to find that the house had no power or water. Overnight snowfall had blanketed the solar panels. We started the generator, had a quiet breakfast, and met with our guide to begin the day. Setting off towards the start of our randonnée trail, we walked through a snow-laden forest that looked like something out of Narnia. The fresh snowfall draped over the trees, and the views of the Patagonian mountains amazed us even more each day.

We began skinning up through a lenga forest, feeling small amidst the vastness of Patagonia. After two hours touring, the landscape opened up, giving way to breathtaking mountain views. The wind picked up as we climbed higher, becoming so fierce at one point that we couldn’t go any further. Removing the skins from our skis in that weather was a real challenge; we had to help each other to stay efficient and keep our hands warm, securing our gear to prevent anything from blowing away.

Finally, we put the splitboards and skis together, ready for the descent. We found plenty of wind-transported snow, perfect for a few turns. Skiing back down through the forest offered relief from the wind, allowing us to warm up again. We even managed to ski all the way back to the car – what a treat!

We wrapped up the day with a well-deserved meal and cold beers at Ruta 7 restaurant.

Day 4: Ice Climbing !!!

We woke up to the sound of the wind howling outside. With no power in the house, we started up the generator and enjoyed a strong cup of coffee. Today was a special day: we were going ice climbing, a brand-new experience for many of us. Excited like little kids, we met up with our guide, Javi and Fito, and set off toward our destination. After parking by the roadside, we geared up with crampons and harnesses, then started a short 35-minute hike to reach a frozen waterfall.

It was my first time ice climbing, and the experience was incredible. Ice climbing is a challenging sport I’d only admired from afar until now. We tackled a medium-level route with a steep, nearly vertical incline, and every minute was exhilarating. Our guides, Javi and Fito, gave us an unforgettable day. We wrapped it up, as usual, with great food and cold beers at Ruta 7 – our go-to spot in the village!

Travel Day: Journey to El Chaltén

The alarm rang early, and we were ready to start our long journey to El Chaltén. We knew we had a 10-hour drive ahead, along an endless and remote highway, through some of the world’s wildest and most beautiful landscapes. By 8 a.m., we had already crossed the Chilean border, and by 10 a.m., we were officially in Argentina.

The First Hours: A Roadside Lesson in Patagonia

The first hours passed smoothly until we made our first mistake: we didn’t fill up the tank in Perito Moreno, the first town we passed. Naively, we assumed there would be another gas station within the next 100 km. We continued, captivated by the scenery, but the fuel gauges in our vehicles started to dip, and there was no sign of any towns. With only 40 km of fuel range left, we started to worry. We were on a remote road with no cell coverage, completely disconnected from the outside world.

In the middle of nowhere, we spotted a car with a flat tire. We pulled over to ask where the nearest gas station was, and the response was blunt: “You’re screwed!” We couldn’t help but laugh, even though we weren’t sure who had it worse – them with a flat tire or us with no fuel. Eventually, one of our vehicles ran out of gas, but the other managed to make it to the closest town to get a jerry can of diesel. With the help of our new road companion, Félix, we managed to refuel and get back on the road.

We continued toward El Chaltén, and as night fell, so did the snow. We finally arrived at 11 p.m., tired but thrilled to have made it to this incredible place.

Good Morning, Chaltén:

We woke up very early, eager to catch the sunrise from the road and watch the first rays of light illuminate Mount Fitz Roy. It was breathtaking—one of the most stunning sunrises I’ve ever witnessed. Seeing that massive mountain come alive with the dawn is a memory that will stay with me forever. Afterward, we returned to the inn for breakfast and geared up for our trek to Laguna Torre.

The Trail to Laguna Torre

The trail begins right in town, making it easy to access. The path is beautiful, winding through a dense forest with lush vegetation and surrounded by towering mountains that seemed to grow larger as we approached the glacier. We hiked 9 kilometers until we reached the lagoon. At first, a thick cloud hung over Cerro Torre, but slowly it cleared, revealing the awe-inspiring beauty of this impressive formation. I imagined the stories of climbers who have reached its summit and of those who, by the mountain’s decision or for safety reasons, didn’t make it. Standing there, I could only imagine the thrill of being at the top.

We spent the day at the lagoon, and I even took a nap, leaning against a rock—it was wonderfully relaxing. Later, we started the trek back to the car, feeling pretty tired. After 20 kilometers of hiking, our feet were definitely feeling it. Once back at the inn, we headed out to La Tapería, a cozy restaurant, for a delicious dinner. We gave thanks for the experience and the day’s unforgettable moments.

Final Day:

Our alarm went off at 4:30 a.m. with the plan of hiking to Laguna de los Tres (23 km) to catch the sunrise over a lake along the trail. However, as we stepped outside, we found that over 20 cm of fresh snow had fallen overnight, blanketing everything. Although everyone in the group was equipped with trekking shoes, we weren’t prepared to hike through such deep snow. So, we decided to skip the hike and enjoy a relaxed final day in the village, savoring the last moments of our trip.

Our journey through Patagonia was truly unforgettable, filled with breathtaking landscapes and challenges that allowed us to connect deeply with nature. From trekking through snow-dusted forests to witnessing the majestic Fitz Roy at sunrise, each day offered new adventures and insights. This journey left us not only with cherished memories but also a profound appreciation for the strength and beauty of this remote corner of the world. Patagonia is, without a doubt, a place that calls for reflection, adventure, and living fully in the present, in a uniquely transformative way.