Snowboard expedition to Chilean Altiplano

It all started a few years ago when my good friend, snowboarder, and Chilean filmmaker Xabier Azcarate and I saw a photo of the Parinacota volcano in Arica while riding the Santiago subway. We were stunned. We didn’t say anything, but our eyes said it all.

This marked the beginning of months filled with dreams, anticipation, and planning. Would it be possible to travel in April, in the middle of the desert, with our snowboards, and find the perfect snow to ride? Some said yes, while others skeptically asked us what a snowboard was—they had never seen one before. The months passed, but our hearts kept dreaming.

We began shaping this dream into a future audiovisual project. We wanted to invite more people to be part of this story and to discover these unknown lands. I invited three friends (Nelly, Pau, and Marissa). Upon receiving my invitation, they did not hesitate to join. Meanwhile, I felt the fear and uncertainty of this journey growing inside me.

April 3rd

We flew from Santiago to Calama, rented two cars there, and drove six hours to Arica. It was a road through the middle of nowhere, with lots of trucks and copper mines. We drove on, our boots and boards in the pickup, determined to keep going.

We reached Arica and headed to Putre, the small urban center of the altiplano desert region. We went straight from sea level to almost 3,500 meters above sea level. It was a beautiful road where we saw the colors change from the sea to the desert, from lush green vegetation to dry, thorny landscapes.

The following days were about adapting and acclimating.

We knew that sunny days awaited us the following week, so we had time to prepare our bodies. We hiked above 4,500 meters, slept at 3,000 meters, and visited natural hot springs nearly 5,000 meters high. We lived intensely while our bodies oxygenated for the big summit day.

The first time we approached the Parinacota volcano, it was surreal. Its imposing presence exceeded any expectation. There it stood, resting like an ancient guardian in its own land, alongside its twin, the Pomerape volcano (6,282m). Both are known as the Payachatas, which means "twins" in Aymara.

After a few days of acclimatizing and breathing at over 4,000 meters, we decided to make our first summit at the Nevados de Taapaca (5,860m), located near our lodge. Each day, that snow-covered summit called out to us. We set up our base camp at 4,500 meters, on a solitary trail. Only a few animals kept us company in our solitude. Just us and the magic of the north.; we spent a night there; it was hard to sleep, and the next morning we began our ascent. We reached the summit by midday and descended through some amazing lines, with views that encompassed the entire Chilean altiplano.

After a few days of rest, the big summit day was getting closer. The moment was nearing, and we needed to prepare ourselves before facing the challenge.

The "Pawa" ceremony

The local inhabitants told us about the PAWA ceremony, an ancient ritual performed before ascending any mountain in the Altiplano. This ceremony is a request for permission and protection from the Aymara ancestors and the sacred summits. So, at sunset, on a hill, together with Mrs. Gregoria, we performed this beautiful ceremony, entrusting ourselves to the mountains with a sacred fire and the fragrance of incense, asking for our protection.

Summit Day

The day before the summit, we crossed paths with Don Vicente, a local guide who would accompany us on the ascent to the volcano. The summit day was somewhat uncertain due to the weather; clouds and rain were expected by 2 p.m. However, according to our plan, we should already be back at the base camp by that time. That hope filled us with encouragement.

1:45 a.m. The alarm went off to wake us up and start the big push. Last night, we set up base camp at 5,000 meters; it was almost impossible to sleep. My head hurt, and my heart was beating faster than usual. We heated water inside the tent, packed our backpacks, and with knowing looks exchanged among the team, we knew that this was where the real adventure and challenge were just beginning.

3:00 a.m. We walked at a slow pace, knowing that this was the key to reaching the summit. Step by step, all in line, under the pink full moon of April that illuminated our path. Our breaths were our faithful companions; an active meditation.

6:00 a.m. Dawn was breaking, and the cold was seeping into every inch of my skin. I was sleepy. I stopped to get some water, closed my eyes, and fell asleep for a minute… I couldn’t let that happen, so I forced myself to stand up and look around in the sunlight. The view was stunning; we could see the Chilean highlands and the border with Bolivia, a dream. Above the clouds, more unexplored volcanoes rising over 6,000 meters stood tall.

9:00 a.m. We had already been walking for three hours toward the summit. In the final meters, it felt like we were making no progress. It was the toughest, slowest stretch. We had been walking for over six hours at more than 5,000 meters, and the lack of oxygen was noticeable. We could only keep moving forward, not think, enjoy, and continue, step by step.

11:00 a.m. Summit! An indescribable moment. From the summit, the crater unfolded before us, vast, unexplored, unique, and magical. There are no words to express that feeling of achievement, pride, love for our land, and for those things that make us feel truly alive.

During the descent, excitement overtook us, and all the efforts of the climb turned into immense gratitude. Although maneuvering at over 5,000 meters is not easy, with limited oxygen and a pounding heart, life feels more intense at this altitude, with these challenges of the Altiplano Experience.

We reached the base camp just in time, at 2 p.m., and the first drops began to fall. We got wet and laughed, even though fatigue and physical pain accompanied us. But all that took a backseat. The rain gave us no time to rest. We had to dismantle the camp, load the backpacks, and walk back to the cars. Each of us, immersed in our thoughts, radiated deep happiness.

Back at the lodge, we spent the afternoon resting and went to bed early.

The next day, processing what we had experienced the previous day was challenging. We had fulfilled a dream, after so many months of preparation. A unique snowboarding expedition in the highlands, magical and unmatched. The desert gave me so much that day…

We packed our bags and returned to the Arica airport. We flew to Santiago, constantly reviewing the photos and videos from those days in the Altiplano. I felt a knot in my chest; I didn’t want to go home. Something about that place had captivated me. I left eternally grateful for that journey, filled with magic, learning, stories, and a rich and vibrant culture. I thank everyone who made this Altiplano travel experience so special.

To the team: Xabi, Musa, Pato, Vitoco, I love you all. Pau, Nelly, and Marissa, great companions. And especially to Jorge Nangari, Don Vicente, Señora Gregoria, and Elena Quispe (the climbing cholitas). Without you, this trip wouldn’t have been as unique and special.